Dong Lai Shun is Beijing's oldest and most famous hot pot chain but has been less than inspiring in the past due to its stuffy state-enterprise ethos. This new branch has a new look, however, and hints at an attempt to shake off such associations - even if the effort to be hip can be equated with a farmer from the countryside trying on an ill-fitting Gucci suit.
What's more, while Dong Lai Shun has long been known for the apathetic service so characteristic of state-owned enterprises, the waiters at this new branch are much more attentive and almost charismatic, possibly signalling that the change is not just limited to the design. One would hope that this laozihao, or old brand name restaurant, will be able to revive the fame it enjoyed in 1914, when it first opened to sell this old Beijing favourite.
Donglai Shun Hot Pot
ADD:Nan'er Huan Branch
TEL:(029)88489008 88489009
Average cost(p.p): RMB 47
